What should I look for in a good Radon reduction system?


Did your mitigator dig out two full 5 gallon buckets of substrate? If not, the efficiency of the system is compromised and a standard has been violated.
This is an actual picture of the hole in a system replaced by a CARMA
member. The suction pipe was stuck in the dirt, no wonder the old system
did not work.


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All pipes that travel horizontally in areas that can get below freezing in the
winter should be wrapped in insulation to prevent ice from freezing the pipe
shut. CARMA members have repaired competitor systems where the entire length of a horizontal pipe in a garage (20 feet) was totally filled with ice.


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Sump lids should be sealed with a nonpermanent caulk for easy access. The plastic lid provided by the manufacturer is the best lid and never should be
replaced with a wood one unless it is pressure treated lumber. A view plate

should allow clients to see inside the well for changes in water levels.
Note the many pipes draining into the well. This is not acceptable. No water should be directed under the floor. This is not a good practice. This
homeowner does not have a sump pump. Too much water in the well water

in the well will stop the mitigation and cause the floor to lift and crack.
Notice this CARMA mitigator installed a trap in each of the drain pipes
to prevent sucking air through the appliance that is draining(top middle).

An optional rubber coupler could be installed in the Radon pipe for quick
disconnect. This can easily be installed as needed.


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It is mandatory that mitigators seal expansion joints, cracks, pipes, lally
poles, or any other holes in the floor with polyurethane sealant. The better
the seal, the more efficient the system becomes and the less conditioned air
will be drawn from your home. Corner seals on expansion joints should have sealant applied 1 ½ -2 inches up the wall and 1 ½ -2 inches onto the floor.
Good mitigators seal to prevent air loss, not to keep Radon out. The system will do that.

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